They’re sacrificial when running aground or hauling your boat up out of the tide. Isn’t it cool that you can haul this boat up out of the water if desired? I think this ability to “get off” the water is extremely practical.
They help keep the boat level when the tide begins to ebb.
They serve as mini shoal keels when running downwind or sailing off a shore in shallow water.
They serve as runners when your boat is loaded on a trailer, helping the boat ride level and secure.
They allow the boat to “air dry” preventing wood rot
There’s probably additional benefits, but let’s just say the skegs are in integral part of this micro cruiser’s design.
Skeg Material Selection:
You can use just about any wood you want for the skegs. Some choose to laminate plywood, some choose dimensional framing material like 2 x 4’s. On my last build I used Red Oak before I realized it’s tendency to absorb water like a sponge. When properly sealed with epoxy, I’m sure it still remains a fine choice for skegs. But, this time around I settled on White Oak. White Oak has been a staple of wooden boat building for over a century. It’s extremely tough and water neutral. It’s very dense and works extremely well as a sacrificial piece.
If you use plywood, many are glassing the skegs for increased strength. If you use a hardwood, you can probably skip the fiberglass. I see absolutely no reason to fiberglass White Oak, so this will save me a step.
I tried to cut the 2″ White Oak skegs on my Ridgid band saw and it was an absolute fail. So, I’ve ordered a better saw blade to help me cut this tough wood. Namely, a Timber Wolf band saw blade (1/2″ 3 TPI) designed for re-sawing. Hopefully, this will do the trick. You’ve gotta have the right tools…
For some crazy reason only known to the Boatbuilding Gods, the first coat of paint on my rudder head never cured. In frustration, I set the rudder head aside thinking, in time it will certainly cure. Well, after considerable time, it never did. It almost did, but certain parts remained tacky.
So, today I sanded off the uncured coat and re-applied another coat of the same paint.
Check it out:
What do I believe happened?
Hard to say, but maybe I rushed the painting overtop of slightly uncured epoxy. This would be my initial guess. I think I applied the paint within 24 hours of the final epoxy coat. Rushing a bit too fast, don’t you think?
I’ll keep my fingers crossed with this re-coat. I’m really hoping this time things cure properly.
As my dad says: “There’s always something waiting to get a guy”.
After being away for the last 8 days, it felt good to get moving again this morning on Hagoth. I got the second side panel glassed and trimmed.
Check it out:
I was hoping to be done in time for the Port Townsend get together, but it hardly appears that I’ll make this date. These boats take what they take…there’re done when there’re done. I’m just the builder. Hagoth will tell me when she’s ready to sail.
I’m glad I’ve reached this point in the build and can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I’ve loved every minute of this project. There are always challenging times and trying times, but things always seem to work out. I’ll looking very forward to getting to know her on the water.
This topic will undoubtably render differing opinions. How much of the side panels do you cover with fiberglass? Do you glass them all? Do you glass just one or two panels?
Next question: Do you glass the shiplap joint? And, how do you tease the glass down into the joint and keep it from raising up leaving air bubbles behind the glass?
My approach: I’m either getting lazy or ultra simple or possibly more incompetent as I age. On my last build, I tried to glass over the shiplap and it was sort of a disaster. The fiberglass doesn’t like to take a sharp bend, and try as you might, the glass cures off the joint leaving air behind it. This is not a good thing as water can get trapped behind the glass.
My solution: This time around, I could see the very same issue raising its ugly head, so I cut the glass on the joint, allowing both sides to lay flat. I’ll cover this cut with glass tape in a later stage. I’d rather have no glass over the joint than to trap water behind the joint.
Now for the photos:
Maybe by working a larger radius onto the panel edge, you could get the glass to lay down better. I may try this before adding glass tape over the joint. There’s always something waiting to get you… And, there always seems to be a way out of the problem once you give it more thought.
After enjoying a weekend getaway with the family, exploring near Yellowstone National Park, I got back to Hagoth.
Check it out:
While still green, I’ll trim off the excess glass around the lower panel and along the inside of the CB case. I’ll then roll several more coats of epoxy into the glass to fill the weave and provide a protective layer to the bottom of the boat.
It feels really good to be moving forward again, as opposed to getting hung up in the ding weeds.
First order of business was to rasp all the proud edges flat with the adjoining panel and round over the transom and stern areas.
I then used a chip brush to work wet epoxy down into the open joints/planks of the hull. After applying the wet epoxy, I laid a fillet down into these areas to bring them flush with the adjoining panel. While still green, I run a gloved finger over these fillets (dipped in alcohol), to smooth and finish the fillet. This also applies pressure on the fillet to ensure it is tamped into the joint a firmly as possible. In a few areas, I’m sure I’ll need to apply another fillet to bring the void up flush with the adjoining panel.
Check it out:
Once cured, I’ll fair all these edges with my Shinto rasp and get ready to apply the glass tape along all the seams.
After what seems like an eternity of niggling and fiddling with top side tasks, tonight Hagoth got flipped.
She finally experienced the ceremonial flipping that all completed boats experience during the last stages of their creation. If they don’t get flipped, they don’t get done. And, let’s face the facts: The majority of most home built boats never get completed, the majority of most plans purchased, never get used, the majority of most of our goals never get accomplished. But, this is starting to sound depressing. And, I don’t want my build blog to instill thoughts of doubt. No, I want my build blog to be encouraging and faith promoting. We can do this! You can do this! I can do this!
Just take a moment a look at this beautiful boat: To me she is stunning.
Have you ever seen such a smart practical little work boat? I absolutely love her pragmatic looks and functional design. I still remember the first image I ever saw of a Scamp.
Here it is:
How can any adventure seeking individual not take note of this little boat and this particular image? Is seems to imbue self reliance, self discovery, exploration and adventure all wrapped up in a 12′ sailboat. To me, this is the very essence of small boat sailing. I personally can’t think of any small boat that better fits this description.
At this stage of my build, I want to thank a few different individuals:
Namely, John Welsford for designing the boat. Howard Rice for teaching my son Preston to sail this boat. Small Craft Advisor and Josh Colvin for providing a kit from which I can build this boat. Any finally all of you for contributing to the overall interest and personality behind the Scamp.
Now, let’s get our boat completed and in the water